Marseille and Pastis: Drinking the Aperitif of Provence

Order a pastis on a terrace in Marseille and the waiter brings a small measure of amber spirit and a carafe of cold water. Pour the water in and the drink turns milky — the louche — and smells of aniseed and liquorice. It’s the taste of Provençal summer, and Marseille is where it belongs.

A short history

After absinthe was banned in France in 1915, anise-flavoured drinks filled the gap. When the rules eased in the early 1930s, Paul Ricard, a Marseille native, launched his pastis in 1932 — and the drink became inseparable from the city. The name comes from the Provençal pastisson, a mixture.

How to drink it

• Pastis first, then water — about five parts water to one of pastis.
• Add ice after the water, if at all; ice straight onto neat pastis can make it cloudy in the wrong way.
• Variations: a tomate (with grenadine) or a perroquet (with mint syrup).
• Drink it before lunch or in the early evening — it’s an aperitif, not a nightcap.

Where to drink it

The Vieux-Port’s terraces are the obvious stage. Climb into Le Panier, the oldest quarter, for small bars and squares; walk the Corniche to the Vallon des Auffes for fish by the water. Several small producers around Marseille make craft pastis with their own blend of herbs — worth seeking out in specialist shops.

Day trips

The Calanques — limestone inlets east of the city — are a national park reached by hiking trail or boat. Cassis, just beyond, makes a respected white wine. Inland, Aix-en-Provence is a quick train ride away.

Getting around

Marseille Provence airport connects to the city by shuttle bus and train. Within the city, metro and trams cover the main areas; for Cassis wine visits or rosé country further inland, arrange a driver rather than driving — see our guide.

Questions visitors ask

Is pastis the same as absinthe?

No. Both use anise, but pastis contains no wormwood, is lower in alcohol and adds liquorice root.

What pairs with pastis?

Olives, tapenade, panisse (chickpea fries) — anything salty and Provençal.